Brasswind Cleaning and Care

Oil Your Valves

Piston-valved brass instruments should be oiled at least every 20-hours of playing. It is actually better to oil your valves too often than not often enough. If, after oiling your valves, they still feel 'gunky' or 'gritty', it's probably time to give your instrument a bath (see "At Home Cleaning").

Follow these steps to oil your valves, and check out the reference video which follows the same process.

You will need: instrument, valve oil, and a safe place to set the instrument.

1. Note the valve oil that is already on the instrument. Do not mix valve oils. If you are unsure of the valve oil you used, perform a cleaning of the instrument before oiling.

2. Unscrew the valve from the top of the casing. This is between the actual valve, below the finger button.

3. On the widest part of the valve, add a few drops on oil. Try not to touch this part of the valve with your fingers, as it is highly delicate.

4. Insert the valve back into the case, making sure that the valve guide (the little disk at the top of the widest part of the valve) is aligned with the casing.

5. Screw the valve back into place, maintaining the alignment.

6. Check to make sure that air flows freely through the instrument. If it feels like your air is getting stuck, the guide is likely misaligned or is in backwards, so repeat step 4.

7. If issues persist, consider taking your instrument to your teacher or a trusted musical instrument repair shop.

Clean Your Instrument

Brass instruments should be cleaned at least once every 300 hours of playing to prevent molding or illness (that's about once a year for a public school student, once every 3-months for a professional, or at the end of every marching band season). Instruments should also be cleaned every time you switch valve oils, if the instrument emits an organic (non-metalic) odor, or if the valves/slides feel grungy/gritty.
Brass instruments should be professionally cleaned at a repair shop about every 900 hours of playing. Shops use a chemical process to clean the instrument better than can be done at home, and usually include an inspection and light-repairs in the cost of cleaning, helping to ensure the longevity of your instrument.

Follow these steps to oil your valves, and there will soon be a reference video which follows the same process.

You will need:

• instrument

• bathtub/large container filled with water (at least twice the size of your instrument)

• dish soap

• brushes from instrument cleaning kit

• valve oil/slide grease

• 2x towels

• 2x microfiber cloth (more gentle than standard towels)

Instructions:

1. Take Pictures:

   • Take pictures of your instrument from all angles before disassembly. This will help you to reassemble and troubleshoot later in the cleaning process.

2. Preparation:

   • Detach all removable parts of the instrument such as the mouthpiece, valves, and slides. Set down safely on one of your towels.

   • If any of your slides or valves will not move, do not force it. You may have to take your instrument to a shop to prevent damaging your instrument.

   • Leave each valve in one piece. There is no need to detach the stem or button. Do not soak these in water.

   • Lay out all cleaning supplies within easy reach.

3. Cleaning the Instrument:

   • Lay the other towel into the bathtub or container. This is so your instrument has something soft to lay on while it soaks.

   • Fill the bathtub or large container with lukewarm water and add a few drops of dish soap. Do not use hot or iced water, as the temperature change may damage the instrument.

   • Submerge the instrument in the soapy water, as well as all other slides. Do not soak the valves or any parts of the instrument with felt.

   • Soak the instrument for 10-20 minutes in the water to remove

   • Use your brushes, to gently clean both the exterior and interior of the instrument.

4. Cleaning the Valves and Slides:

   • The valves are the most delicate part of the instrument, so be as gentle as possible when cleaning.

   • Clean the valves by gently brushing them with a soapy microfiber cloth.

   • Clean the slides with a slide brush and toothbrush, removing any accumulated dirt or grime.

5. Rinsing and Drying:

   • Rinse all parts thoroughly with clean, lukewarm water to remove any soap residue.

   • Dry the instrument and its parts using the remaining microfiber cloth. Use only the microfiber cloth for drying to prevent damage.

6. Applying Valve Oil and Slide Grease:

   • Apply valve oil sparingly to each valve, ensuring smooth operation. (see the "Oil Your Valves" section above)

   • Use slide grease sparingly on all slides to ensure they move freely. If the slides feel like there is too much grease, add a singular drop of valve oil to the slide's exterior to thin the grease. If you add too much valve oil, you may have to re-clean the slides.

7. Reassemble the Instrument:

   • Carefully reassemble all parts of the instrument, checking that each part is assembled as it was (compare to the images you were recommended to take)

   • Polish your instrument appropriately for the material it is made out of. (see the "Polish Your Instrument" section below)

8. Final Check:

   • Play a few notes to ensure everything is functioning correctly. Listen for any unusual sounds or feelings during play.

   • If the air feels stuck or is partially/completely blocked off, one of your valves is likely misaligned.

   • If you cannot figure out an issue, bring your instrument to your teacher or to a trusted repair shop for professional guidance.

Polish Your Instrument

Polishing your instrument should only be done after cleaning. Over-polishing can lead to accelerated wear on the finished material, and an unpolished instrument sounds and plays just as good.

Follow the instructions only for your instrument's material type below.

Lacquered Brass (shiny, golden color - most student instruments and some pro instruments are this finish)
Buff gently with a microfiber cloth after cleaning. Anything more is unnecessary.

Raw Brass (not very shiny and will turn your skin green when mixed with sweat - most common on antique instruments)
You don't have to actually do anything, as brass patina will not harm your instrument. However, if you dislike your hands turning green:
Buff gently using a very gentle powder-polishing cloth intended for musical instruments or delicate jewelry. Do not use any creams or polishes meant for other uses of brass, as they will tear a hole into your instrument over time.

Silver Plated (looks like nickel, but is a little shinier and is the standard for high-end instruments - if you're unsure, check the manufacturer's website)
Buff gently using a very gentle powder-polishing cloth intended for musical instruments or delicate jewelry. Do not use any creams or polishes meant for other uses of silver, as they will strip away the layers of silver over time.

Nickel Plated (looks like silver, but is less shiny and far cheaper - if you're unsure, check the manufacturer's website)
Buff gently with a microfiber cloth after cleaning. Anything more is unnecessary.

Custom Finishes (anything else not listed)
Many custom finishes are lacquered, some are not. If they are lacquered, then you don't need to do anything! Just gently buff with a microfiber cloth after cleaning.
If the finish does not appear to be lacquered or you are unsure, consult the manufacturer or ask a repair shop for best practices when polishing.